My experience of London Fashion Week 2018 wasn’t just dominated by the amazing clothes, pumping tunes and iconic locations. It was also dominated by diversity, including disabled and plus–sized models.
From wheelchairs to size 20, everyone looked beautiful and confident. It was heart-warming to see.
I recently picked up last month’s issue of Cosmo, featuring cover star and plus-size model Tess Holliday. I have retained it as keepsake, to remember the year when the fashion industry got “real”. Yes, there was a backlash on social media, hailing this as a seriously unhealthy message. I guess I agree with that to an extent too. But, arguably, more unhealthy are the size zero models who still dominate the majority of catwalks. “Average” women like me are still in the catwalk minority.
For years, the industry has come under fire for its lack of representation of the full spectrum of race, size and age — and substantive improvements are only just starting to be seen in 2018. Nevertheless, I still feel that someone like me – of average height and build, size 10 on a good day, 12 on a bad day and 5 foot 6 if I stand up straight – are not really represented or “fashionable”.
I am not skinny but I’m not obese. I’m average. Yet it feels as though you have to be at either end of the spectrum to get catwalk representation. The fashion brands need to represent us ‘in the middle’ as well. Because we are the majority, and therefore have the most disposable income to spend on the latest trends.
As a fashion lover, I adore those elite catwalks, with the likes of Kendal Jenner or Bella Hadid. But as an artistic event, rather than a representation of real life.
Fashion brands have to consider the effect that their model castings can have on women. A recent report shows that 32.5 per cent of model castings went to women of colour in September’s fashion month — a commendable 2.3 per cent increase from the season before.
But only 0.2 per cent were aged 50 or above and just 0.4 per cent were plus-size — in fashion talk, that is a UK size 12 or above.
On Instagram there are the plus-size bloggers, such as Callie Thorpe, 30, with 201,000 followers. I admire these inspirational, curvy women who fly the flag for the stylish, larger lady. Also, there are the “mum bloggers”, showing motherhood in all its honesty. One example is dresslikeamum (aka Zoe de Pass, 37) who uses her platform to prove to her 119,000 followers that mums needn’t lose their fashion identity. But, that’s on Instagram – not the pages of Vogue or the catwalks of Milan.
There is a lack of interest for women like me in fashion, and that is a little sad. The sooner brands recognise the appetite for “average”, the better.
