So, Paris Fashion Week just happened. Here’s a little catch up on my favourite designers’ new collections and their shows.
A huge spotlit box appeared to have landed opposite the Eiffel Tower. Inside, yet more lights, and a collection whose show opened with leather and velvet shorts, and mini dresses. There were also plenty of exquisitely tailored jackets, cropped jeans and embroidered blouses and a full menswear collection. Most notable was a tassel-trimmed sequined jacket and a crystal-embroidered Prince of Wales smoking coat. The finalé came bright and furious, with a medley of colorful sparkling evening dresses.
This is the second season for Natacha Ramsay-Levi at Chloé. She has already hit her stride, opening with a strong silhouette, jodhpur jogger trousers and blazer, a trench coat, and chunky knit worn with a pleated lace insert skirt. There were enough dresses to keep the every customer happy: open V-neck shirt dresses worn with a pendant necklace; drop-waist dresses, some with knife-pleats, others embroidered. Trickier were the cutaway at the hip dresses exposing the skin – the idea was great but needs clever layering in real life. At an entry level there were Chloé logo socks.
Maria Grazia Chiuri is still on the path of the feminist uprising. Her set was wrapped in protest art from the 60s. The late 60s saw the launch of Miss Dior, the house’s first ready to wear line. Chiuri ran with the individuality created in that decade. Elaborating on this theme, kilts came in different lengths and unpredictable fabrics, such as the delicate point d’esprit worn with a masculine jacket, or short coat. Knitwear was heavily embroidered. Top of the shopping list will be the printed bags with embellished straps and patchworks of Dior archive prints.
COMME DES GARCON
A fantastical fashion moment is the best description, with 16 breathtaking looks from Rei Kawakubo for Comme des Garçon. Models climbed on to an elevated catwalk, to rise above the onlooking fashion crowd, who gazed up in awe, as one model after another appeared in creations of loveliness. Layers of ruffles and lace, followed by a mille-feuille of fabrics, a gigantic proportioned tulle skirt wrapped in black lace. Each look topped off with glittering head dressings, one a triple bun. This was a masterclass in design.
Karl Lagerfeld (with a beard) presented a gentle stroll through autumn in Paris at the Chanel show. The Grand Palais was filled with an avenue of trees and fallen leaves covered the catwalk. This provided the basis of the leaf print used through out the collection, on jackets, dresses and coats. Metallic accents were key. Flat gold boots were worn with bouclé tweed skirt suits and golden flecked tights. The LBD finale was styled with a pink opera glove version of Lagerfeld’s signature fingerless gloves – which looked a bit like the models were about to wash up after a dinner party.