It’s been a funny old season. With a mere handful of physical men’s fashion shows taking place during June and July – and the vast majority of presentations banished to the digital realm – observing the ways in which designers have tackled the brave new post-pandemic world has been fascinating. But with a limited schedule and fewer brands than usual in the marketplace, it’s been a challenge to cover. However, I have literally managed to ‘scrape together’ the forthcoming guide to what guys will be wearing in 2021. Here’s hoping you’ll enjoy some of these.
Perhaps more of a micro-trend, nautical notes appeared at a number of shows, including the anchor-covered intarsia-knit sweaters at Gucci, exaggerated Breton-style tops at D&G (where they were teamed with tailored separates in holiday-ready hues) and sailor sweaters. I do love an anchor.
2. The bomber jacket
Bomber jackets are going to be big for Spring/Summer 2021. And though this may not sound like news, there were more takes on the classic aviator jacket at the SS21 shows than one could count on two hands. From the 1970s-style cropped bomber jackets in functional nylon at Gucci to the classic high-shine flight jackets and the cropped minimalist bombers at both Prada and Hermes.
3. The oversized trench coat
Everyone knows that a trench is a springtime staple, but for Spring/Summer 2021 the look has been updated with a voluminous twist. Papery trenches in shades of stone and caramel have a 1970s flavour, while trenches in hues of dusty rose and midnight blue will dominate. The key to wearing your own oversized trench coat next season is to team it with unexpected accessories. A pair of shorts on your legs and pool slides on your feet, with socks!
4. Big and bold Bermuda shorts
Bermuda shorts have started making more of an appearance on the world’s catwalks of late, but for SS21 the look really comes into its own, with the general mood being almost over the top in its soft-hued summery-ness. You must wear tailored shorts in shades of sea foam, lilac and candyfloss and the key to wearing your own Bermuda’s next summer is to pick a pair that finish just above the knee, and to make a statement with your footwear. Some white running sneakers worn with tube socks, for instance, or a pair of this season’s strongest dad sandals.
5. The 1970s redux
Thanks to the likes of Alessandro Michele at Gucci (not to mention the every day wardrobe of Harry Styles), much has been made of the 1970s style resurgence in the past few years. And it showed no sign of slowing at this season’s menswear shows. From the wide array of high-colour flared corduroys and jeans at Gucci to the flocked safari suits and the cropped caramel leather bombers (worn with open-neck shirts – very Starsky), you’d be well advised not to throw away your oversized aviator shades just yet.
NEON, perhaps unsurprisingly, is not the easiest colour trend in the world to pull off. That being said, if you get it right, it can really work. For inspiration, look for neon-flecked worker jackets and fluorescent-yellow romper suits or bright neon separates teamed with muted tailoring – which is exactly the way you should be wearing this trend.
7. Pastel splash
We’ve said it once and we’ll say it again: pastels for spring actually work. And for SS21 it’ll be easier than ever to get your hands on pastel pieces you’ll want to wear again and again. Check out the candyfloss-hued two-piece suits at Gucci and sea-foam-tinted knitted separates at Prada.
8. Acid pops
In addition to the softness of pastels and the punch of neon, pops of acid hue were shown on many of the catwalks in London, Paris and Milan. From the rich injections of haemoglobin at Fendi to shades of chartreuse at Versace and traffic-cone-orange at Burberry, hardcore colour was the order of the month – which, if nothing else, helped the looks stand out on screen, where they were predominantly seen.
9. Vests under suits
In addition to oversized ’80s suits and tailoring, roomy two pieces in muted shades came worn with V-neck sweaters, vests and wrap-around kimono-style shirts, all of which were designed expressly to show as much model chest as possible. An off white ‘dirty vest’ is a look you should go for.
10. Fresh florals
Florals? For Spring? You know the drill. For Spring/Summer ’21, however, the look is more masculine than floaty. With digitised takes on Hawaiian prints, florals have never looked fresher.