Menswear month has just wrapped up, and the designers have provided their best for the boys to wear next winter.
There was drama in Milan, thanks to Prada’s A-list actor set. Kyle MacLachlan from Sex & The City opened the show and Jeff Goldblum closed, plus rising star Asa Butterfield from Sex Education was spotted in the mix.
Kim Jones showed his Dior collection, with a noteworthy front row including YE (Kanye West to you and me) with new beau Julia Fox (watch out for her – she’s a rising star), Pharrell and Tyler The Creator.
So, what will guys be wearing this year?
Underpant Waistbands & Low Slung Jeans
The nineties craze for showing off your logo undies has returned. Logo splashed boxer shorts peeping above your belt. Yes, a look rarely seen since the mid-noughties.
Calvin Klein and Hilfiger were the American mega-brands that cemented the status of waistbands-for-show more than 30 years ago. Now clips of Mark Wahlberg dropping his jeans to show off crisp CK boxers circulate once again, and today’s top designers have decided to follow suit.
Pop polo necks
Fold up the boring black turtle necks, and pack some punch with your polo: skin tight printed tops are the go-to for pizzazz. A flurry of acidic, floral pattern tops. Usually these tops are more unicolour, but 2022 is all about being bright and colourful with these prints.
King of quilts
Your country coat won’t cut it in winter; 2022 will be the year quilt goes crazy. Quilt is hard to work with, so the concept and silhouette is challenging. Staying sexy is the key. Go hard or go home. At Dior Men, Kim Jones did the opposite; crisp, clean and completely Parisian patent coats were stitched like Lady Dior bags. Industry veterans Dsquared2 opted for hiker chic padded vests and capes, while Portuguese up-and-comer David Catalán did classic cut quilt jackets in electric hues, finished with matching crowns. Long live the quilt!
They have long been lurking and they’re huge in NYC winters, but now it’s official: balaclavas are blowing up. Always a step ahead, Virgil Abloh made them morph suit-style last season, and for the Louis Vuitton collection last week, new versions came in streams: knitted with ears, printed LV monogrammed. You name it, they came with a little hole for your head. Think ‘grandpa athleisure’, balaclavas streamlined outfits with polish. Think red and black jacquard rose patterns, or creamy white with a fluffy cardigan scarf combo. Black sunglasses are mandatory. Most endearing, though, were at Loewe, where models on the sand catwalk wore striped knit balaclavas with heart-shaped peepholes framing faces.
Faux furs forever. The It coats this year came huge-collared, chopped at the waist, and oozing metropolitan glamour. Cut to models striding forth in coal black fake fur, tuxedo and sheer heart print shirts. The ‘big fur coat’ belongs to the realm of fantasy, they’re a glamorous shell, provocative of desire.
How to stay toasty but show off your pearls? Get acquainted with the sliced-up sweater. At Fendi, knitwear came oversized with triangular cut outs to frame necklaces on flesh. Small but similar chops where the pullovers came plain and lilac mean it’s high time to just have fun with that sweater.